Steamy Kitchen p.2 – Soon Tofu
February 6th, 2010This is a follow-up from the previous post, trying to cover a collection of recipes from the Steamy Kitchen Cookbook.
As you probably saw in the last post, I’ve really been enjoying this book. Friendly prose, consistent and clear instructions, and excellent photography make it a very useful and easy-to-read cookbook. There was one recipe, however, that I tried that didn’t quite turn out as well as it should have. On the flip side, there was one so good that you will be convinced that you can stay home to have great Korean food. I’ll be sharing that recipe here.
I think part of the problem was my relative lack of experience cooking fish. After all, in the middle of the vast corn fields of Illinois, there aren’t a lot of good seafood options. I’m fine with fatty fish, like salmon, and crustaceans (shrimp) and shellfish (clams, et al.) are no problem for me. When it comes to firm-fleshed white fish, I’m much more comfortable breading and deep-frying it than anything else. Unfortunately, I made a bad choice of fish for this recipe, which I was really looking forward to.
Have you ever had eel? Usually served in a sushi restaurant, it’s usually labeled unagi (fresh-water eel) or anago (salt-water eel). It’s grilled with a dark soy glaze called kabayaki sauce that brings out the meatiness in the eel. It’s one of my favorite things on a Japanese menu. The sweet umami-rich kabayaki sauce is made with soy sauce, mirin, and sugar. In deference to the relative unavailability of fresh eel and the questionable sustainability of it, Jaden uses it to glaze some firm-fleshed white fish. And now you can probably tell why it didn’t work out so well.
Alright, it wasn’t really that bad, but my choice of fish (cod) was not the right one. I should have used the catfish fillets that were suggested. I also probably slightly over-cooked and under-charred it, which left it a little more bland than I would like. The sauce is delicious, though, and could be used to glaze or just pour over anything. On a side note, this was my first time eating edamame (you can see them peeking out behind the fish in the photo). They’re basically fresh young soybeans, available frozen in any grocery store. You just steam them, pop them out of their pods and enjoy. Soybeans are really good for you, and if you don’t like tofu, this is a great way to eat them.
Kabayaki Sauce
from Steamy Kitchen Cookbook by Jaden Hair
- 1/2 c soy sauce
- 1/2 c mirin
- 3 T sugar
- Stir ingredients together and bring to a simmer.
- Simmer 4 to 5 minutes, until it coats the back of a spoon.
One of our stand-out favorites so far from this cookbook is a spicy Korean stew. I’ve seen the name spelled many different ways–soon tofu, soon doobu, soon tubu, soondubu. Sometimes they add in jjigae, which Wikipedia tells me just means “Korean stew”. If you’ve never had soon tofu, it’s usually made with a broth that is rendered deep red and spicy with the liberal addition of Korean chili paste (gochujang) or flakes (gochu garu). It has silken tofu and a few vegetables, and usually includes seafood or beef, though it’s easily adjusted for vegetarians or vegans. Once you have the broth and the tofu, though, you can use whatever you like and adjust the spice to your own tastes. It is customary to serve it with white rice, as it helps to temper the heat of the spicy stew.
Instead of the beef in the recipe, we made it with a frozen seafood combo from a local Korean grocery store. It had octopus, clam meat, shrimp, and a few other tasty bits. Unlike the white fish, this turned out perfect. The combination of creamy silken tofu, chewy seafood, and the bright crunch of the green onions on top make each bite a tasty new exploration into this stew.
Spicy Korean Tofu Stew
from Steamy Kitchen Cookbook by Jaden Hair
- 1 T cooking oil
- 3 cloves garlic, minced
- 1/2 pound very thinly sliced beef
- 4 c stock or broth (homemade is best, any kind will work)
- 4-8 fresh shitake mushrooms
- 2-3 T Korean chili flakes
- 1 T soy sauce
- 18-oz block or tube of silken tofu, cut into large cubes
- 4 eggs
- 1 t sesame oil
- 2 green onions, sliced on the bias
- In a pot over medium heat, add cooking oil and swirl to coat.
- Add garlic and fry until fragrant (about 30 seconds).
- Add beef slices and fry for 1 minute until browned.
- Pour in stock, and add mushrooms, chili flakes, and soy sauce.
- Bring to a boil, then add the tofu and return to a rolling boil.
- Taste and add additional chili flakes or soy sauce as needed.
- Crack eggs into the pot and let the eggs cook until the whites are white, but the yolk is still runny.
- Turn off heat, drizzle with sesame oil, and finish with the green onions.
- Serve in bowls with white rice.
Since my seafood blend was already cooked, I added it with the tofu, so it only heated through and cooked for a few minutes. Jaden says you can substitute regular chili flakes in place of the Korean variety, but with so many ethnic groceries, I recommend going for the real thing. The flavor is fruitier and more complex than the straight-forward hot POW of the chili flakes you put on pizza.
You can look through the table of contents of the Steamy Kitchen cookbook on Amazon (click “Look Inside”). If there’s any dish that you’d like me to try out, just let me know.















My pasta salad was boring, tri-color rotini with what tasted like salad dressing. I should probably take the blame for this one. Who thinks of a Jewish deli serving good pasta salad?
My pastrami sandwich, on rye, was a disappointment. The meat was not treated well. It was fatty and a little stringy, a little dry, but at the same time dripping with greasy juices which ran out and soaked the bread. This sandwich was all about fulfilling the stereotype of a nearly-impossible-to-fit-in-your-mouth “sandwich” with no attention paid to the inadequate amount of (really delicious, house-baked) rye bread. It was hard to eat and not that great. You’d find better at your supermarket.
My wife’s corned beef was the shining star at the table. It was moist and sliced thin. It was delicious, and while it was the same height as my overly huge sandwich, it stayed together much better because it wasn’t destroyed by the juices running out and making everything soggy. If/when I go back, I am getting the corned beef.


When you unwrap one of these bars, you’re greeted by a shiny bar of dark chocolate. Each section snaps loudly as you make your way through the bar. The chocolate has texture, character, owing to the
As long as you’re not afraid of piping dough into hot frying oil, churros are easy to make. Most recipes I’ve found make a dough that is too hard to pipe out of anything I have–most churros are extruded from large metal churreros, not plastic piping bags that most of us have access to. The traditional dough is similar to pâte à choux (you know, the stuff eclairs & cream puffs are made from) without eggs or butter. Boil oil, sugar, and water, then turn off the heat, dump in flour and stir, stir, stir. Bayless’ recipe is available from 
