March, 2009:

Alinea – the Book

I recently checked out the Alinea Cookbook from the library in preparation for my upcoming “modern” food exploration. It’s amazing. The artwork is inspiring. The recipes showcase chef Grant Achatz‘s talent in flavor pairings and his eye for detail. Reading through this book is like rediscovering what “food” means. Sometimes the recipes seem pretentious and fussy, what with a plate full of various powders and gels, but the cookbook also includes some more traditional techniques, like cooking meat en sous vide to cook it thoroughly while infusing flavors or controlling other characteristics like color. The most valuable thing I think I’ll take away from the book at this point is the new perspective on how to put flavors, colors, and textures together to form a complete dish.

Few recipes are doable without some sort of special ingredients (e.g. methylcellulose, sodium alginate) or special equipment (e.g. anti-griddle, PacoJet). Some recipes include a dozen components that each have their own ingredient lists. I’m no stranger to long ingredient lists, but I am not a good long-term planner, and some of the components in the book take days to finish.

While my budget will not allow me to play with some of the more expensive compounds used in the book, I have some of the basics in my house already or on their way in the mail. As I use some of the new toys and ingredients, I’ll share pictures and my experiences. Until then, look at Alinea Mosaic, the website for the book for some pictures and sample recipes.

North Shore Gin No. 6

Mar 10th, 2009

by Jason.

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When I drink, I drink good stuff. I’m not a college kid who wants to drink a $12 case of “beer”. Occasionally, I enjoy a cocktail. When I do, I go to my carefully-chosen bottles and usually mix up classic drinks from my little red Mr. Boston guide. One of my favorite classic drinks is a classic martini. I’m not talking about vodka. I’m not using a vermouth spritzer. I mix it the traditional way (or close to it). I’m talking about 2, maybe 3 parts gin to 1 part vermouth. It’s all about taste and balance though, so your preferences may lead you to a different ratio. When I reach for a gin, I try to always have North Shore Distillery’s Gin No. 6 on hand. It has an elegant, complex, yet balanced flavor profile that you don’t get with the ubiquitous blue-bottled competitor. As you can see from the links on their site, I’m not alone in my judgment of this gin–this elixir has won numerous awards. I also like this company because it’s local. They put effort into making great products as locally as possible. From Lake Michigan water, the locally-grown grain, to organic and wild botanicals, they put the “craft” in craft distilling. North Shore makes a number of great products, from vodka to aquavit. I got to sample just about everything they make at a recent tasting event at The Corkscrew in Urbana, where I met Sonja Kassebaum (owner, with her husband, Derek). Talking with her, I can tell how much care they put into their products. Sonja writes her own blog, Thinking of Drinking, where she writes about everything from new cocktail recipes to the latest issues affecting distillers. Over time I’ll post more reviews of my favorite beverages from soda to distilled beverages, and all proofs in between. Some time soon, try something new or make your favorite cocktail. Let me know in the comments what your favorite cocktails are.

Sharp Knives

Mar 10th, 2009

by Jason.

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They make a big difference in the ease and safety of food prep. If you can spend the time, learn to sharpen them yourself. If not, find a reputable sharpener in your area. Some knife manufacturers will sharpen your knives for just the cost of shipping.

I’ve found that the quality of the knife will strongly affect how often you need to maintain your knives. A good knife, sharpened well, should not need sharpening very often. I have some cheap knives, some old knives, and one very nice chef’s knife.

I’ve sharpened the cheap knives, but they don’t take or hold an edge as well as my older, inherited knives. My go-to knife, the Shun Classic 8″ Chef’s Knife (seen above, isn’t it beautiful?), has remained sharp for years of daily use, with only regular honing with a steel. If/when I need it, the manufacturer, KAI, offers free sharpening for life.

Some other important tips:

DON’T PUT YOUR KNIVES IN THE DISHWASHER! Not only do the abrasives in the detergent dull the knives, but it will probably ruin the handles.

Don’t cut on things harder than your knives. When your sharp knife comes into contact with glass or stone, your knife loses.

Store your knives safely and separately. Most sets come with a block, but your other knives should not be left loose in a drawer to rub against each other. Get a plastic organizer to keep them safe and sharp.

Learn how to cut. If you can let the knife do the work, and use a back/forward motion, you’ll use your nice, sharp edge instead of bending it on the food or cutting surface.

This post inspired by my favorite local food blog, Champaign Taste.

Classic vs. Modern

Mar 10th, 2009

by Jason.

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I’ve watched shows, I’ve read books. I know the difference between julienne, chiffonade, and brunoise, how to execute them, and how to pronounce them. I’ve eaten and prepared authentic food from many different ethnic backgrounds. I’m not afraid of my hollandaise breaking, and sometimes I whip cream by hand for fun. I feel like I have a better-than-average understanding of classic food preparation.

The modern stuff (usually referred to as “molecular gastronomy”) is intriguing to me. There’s hydrocolloids and anti-griddles. Syringes and liquid nitrogen. Chefs like Grant Achatz (cf. Alinea book or website) are playing with food preparation and presentation in new ways that excite me. I will never have the space or money to have the equipment they have, but I can still play with some of the ingredients and methods.

I’ve been following a blog titled Workbook by Michael Laiskonis, pastry chef at Le Bernardin. In it, he talks through things that he’s trying out. Some of them are destined for the dessert plates in the award-winning restaurant. While he has a strong hold on classic techniques for making ice creams, meringues, and ganache, he also explores the modern ways of pearls, gelees, and foams.

I’ve decided that I want to try some of these things out, and I’ve ordered some powders and a high-precision scale. After some of these things come in, I plan on posting my own Workbook-like posts with some pictures and notes from my experience playing with food the modern way.